Indianapolis-based restaurateur Martha Hoover’s Patachou Inc. concepts have become so popular here that it is hard to imagine any of them closing. That was the sad news, however, when the company announced that the fledgling fried chicken shop, Crispy Bird, was ready.
January 12th is the last day for the one-year-old Meridian-Kessler restaurant. This is evident from a detailed January 5 statement by Hoover on the restaurant’s Facebook and Instagram.
Crispy Bird, Hoover wrote, “was short-lived – the founding team that made up Crispy Bird’s DNA were determined to stay in Indianapolis for a year and, as noted, they have had culinary adventures around the world – you literally blew out of the stable. “
“It is time to transform the space into its intended use – a food and restaurant incubator space where Patachou can develop and test recipes, mimic concepts, host guest chefs, and advance culinary education.”
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A collaboration between Hoover and her son, Chef David Hoover, Crispy Bird, 115 E. 49th St., across from Hoover’s popular Cafe Patachou and the Napolese pizzeria, has in some cases been recognized for its refined home cooking even earlier on Crispy Bird was on Opened December 7, 2017.
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Eater, Tasting Table and Food & Wine Magazine have recognized the restaurant. Twitter @TravelFoodGuy Larry Olmsted, who wrote for USA Today, said of Crispy Bird’s chicken, “The cuisine is perfect, with an outstanding crispy breading that is so deliciously flavored that I keep picking up small pieces that fall on my plate , and eat it yourself. ”
But in a state with so many notable fried chicken restaurants that there are various unofficial fried chicken trails, Crispy Birds Poultry has never made a permanent home in Hoosier Hearts.
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In my review, I preferred side dishes to chicken, especially the macaroni and cheese, which I wrote, “Flying Drop threw the chicken off the stage.” Indianapolis monthly reviewer Julia Spalding said, “This isn’t a legendary roast chicken.” Yelpers only gave Crispy Bird three stars, critics noted that the prices were too high. A chicken breast with coleslaw and pickles is $ 14.
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Crispy Bird uses a traditional chicken that is humanly and naturally raised on Gunthorp Farms. The meat is flavorful but firmer than the typical roast chicken from Indiana, and Crispy’s Birds breading is more crisp and deep bronze than pointy golden brown.
The chicken is not for everyone, but there was something to love at Crispy Bird: thick, crispy breaded fillet on white bread slides with a spicy gribiche sauce; a chicken liver pie tart with green apple curd and fresh herb salad; These creamy mac and cheese squares sizzled in a pan until the cheesy outsides turned yellowish brown and crispy. Barnyard chic walls peppered with Ernest Goh photos of the Malaysian Ayam Serama chicken breed.
Crispy Bird may be out, but Patachou Inc. continues. New public greens are scheduled to open at Cummins Tower in downtown Indianapolis this month. The 2,400 square meter restaurant, which is being developed at the intersection of Market and New Jersey Streets, has 59 seats inside and 16 on the terrace. Another public green recently opened in the Fashion Mall.
Meanwhile, Martha Hoover is stepping up her efforts to feed the food insecure children in Indianapolis through the efforts of the Patachou Foundation.
“For the next five months, Crispy Bird will be used as an interim production kitchen and office space for the growing Patachou Foundation, whose permanent headquarters won’t be completed until June 2019. The Patachou Foundation is on the right track to feed around 45,000 scratchers. In 2019, meals were prepared for hungry children – which means having a dedicated workspace is paramount, “said Hoover.
With Crispy Bird still in the mix, Patachou Inc. owns 14 restaurants in the Indy area, including the Petit Chou Bistro & Champagne Bar and the One Fourteen Cocktail Lounge bar, which opened just before Crispy Bird and across the street.
Follow IndyStar food writer Liz Biro on Twitter: @lizbiro, Instagram: @lizbiro and on Facebook. Call them at 317-444-6264.